Tuesday, July 8, 2008

Green wine isn't young anymore

There's a little ado about something in the wine(cyber)world over the issue of natural wines. It started with this article on Food and Wine's website by Lettie Teague. The article is prefaced by saying "Skeptical about the “greenwashing” of the wine industry" so you know where she's headed. But that's no excuse for the misinformation, poor execution and general lack of knowledge that is displayed by Lettie. So Alice Feiring was the first to call out some obvious problems, but by her own admission she went a little easy on Lettie and left it to others. Like Lyle Fass who does the usual personal attack and rants and raves incoherently for a paragraph on the superiority of natural wines. He's basically right but it's sort of like agreeing with Ralph Nader 95% of the time; you know he's right and very knowledgable but still feel gross agreeing with such a pompous asshole. So back to the article: it would've been nice if Lettie had compared apples to apples--say a Brun Beaujolais to a Dubeouf Beaujolais (Dressner would love that)--but instead she picks a Mosse Chardonnay poured by the glass at some dismal hippie wine bar. The wine shows no typicity and who knows how it was treated at that place. I've always enjoyed Mosse's wines, most recently the Boire Rouge, but would probably not gravitate to his chardonnay. Anywho, she never mentions the big guns out there who are organic or biodynamic--maybe she's not aware or she didn't want to kill her predetermined ideas by bringing up things like Domaine Leroy, Domaine Montille and Domaine de la Romanee Conti. This is a good argument for the mastery of natural winemaking as is Lapierre or any number of great German and Austrian producers; no need to assert that she's been drinking wine made by pedophiles.

Natural wines are superior in many catagories but you can and should harbor some skepticism. Obviously marketing is suspect and it's true that some natural wines are a bit more volatile or picky about their treatment. And of course sometimes you can't always get what you want, or you may opt for a Budweiser and not recycle the can. Hey I eat local if I can afford it and don't drive but I like the convenience of zip-lock freezer bags and sometimes buy more groceries than will fit in my reusable tote so? I think my carbon footprint is smaller than yours now please, go and fuck thyself. Peace.

1 comment:

Lyle Fass said...

Well my little hipster and very experienced wine friend. What? Two years. And a Mormom to boot. Thought they did not let you drink ever. I year your potential VP candidate has not had a cup of coffee ever. I don't appreciate personal attacks. Had that too much at my last job and especially from some anonymous skinny jeans hipster who has been in the wine buisness for two years. You have NO experience. Wow,,,,been to a couple Dressner tastings and some J & F tastings. Your wine cred is shit to me and your criticisms are unfounded as you don't know me. Granted I do not know you either....not that I want to after being called a pompous asshole. We pretty much both agree on Lettie Teauge but due to your inexperience in the wine field and the wine business you have no idea actually how many of these especially French winemakers have 'ahem' different ways of raising their children, treating their wives etc. I have been in the business since I have been 19. I am 33 years old. I have vastly more experience than you and can back up my comments but don't wish to out who these piece of shit winemakers are who are "green." You may call me rambling but that's my style if you don't like it then don't read. No one's forcing you. Obviosuly you have some strange political leanings being a Mormon and drinking wine and calling your blog "Kapital." Your trip, not mine. I don't like you. I don't like your blog and I would not like to see any more comments on my blog from your pompous pseudo-intellectual self. So in the spirit of bad language. Go fuck yourself . . .you snivelling, whiny, piece of shit. Fin!